As reported in this section on the variety of products, traditional balsamic vinegar is the most prestigious and historically rich balsamic produced in the Italian cities of Modena and Reggio Emilia since the Middle Ages. The following paragraphs discuss the sensory characteristics and insights into the processing method of this treasured balsamic.
Why it is called traditional
Traditional balsamic vinegar is so called because it is produced according to the original method established in the second half of the 19th century. There are two types of traditional balsamic vinegar:
- Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP), an Italian city in Emilia Romagna.
- Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia), an Italian city also in Emilia Romagna.
Both the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia are extremely valuable and expensive. They are sold in small batches,for high-end consumption.
What is traditional balsamic made of?
The production process of traditional balsamic vinegar is regulated by the official PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) production specification issued by the European Commission on 15 May, 2000 and covers balsamic vinegar that meets productions parametres, such as:
- Grape must production
- Processing and aging
- The best place for balsamic vinegar casks
- Wooden barrels
- Drawing, topping up and refilling
Grape must
Grape must used for traditional balsamic vinegar is obtained from the soft crushing of indigenous varieties of white and black grapes, such as: Lambrusco, Ancellotta, Trebbiano, Sauvignon, Sgavetta, Berzemino, Occhio di gatta. They are grown in the Italian provinces of Modena, or Reggio Emilia, thus reinforcing the deep connection between balsamic vinegar and the territory. Hand picking is done in the fall when the grapes are ripe and sugary. After harvesting, the grapes are gently pressed to facilitate the separation of the must from the solid parts of the bunch. The resulting juice is then filtered and allowed to settle for a few hours. The addition of substances other than grapes is forbidden.
Processing and aging
Within 24 hours of crushing the grapes, the grape must is cooked in open boilers over direct heat and simmered slowly at a temperature between 80-90°C (176 to 194°F) until it reaches the desired degree of concentration. After cooking, the still warm must is poured into larger wooden containers to be cooled and then transferred to glass demijohns, where it remains until the following spring, allowing impurities to settle and clear the juice.After cooking, the boiled and reduced musts undergo three steps before they transform in balsamic vinegar: fermentation, maturation, and aging.
Fermentation
The fermentation phase is made up of two stages:
- Alcoholic fermentation, when the yeasts in the must convert part of the sugars into ethyl alcohol.
- Aceticdioxidation,when acetobacteria react to oxygen, causing the alcohol to be oxidized and converted into acetic acid.
These two moments are simultaneous and last about two to three years.
Maturation
During this second stage, important and complex enzymatic transformations take place. Once the yeasts and acetobacteria have finished their function, thanks to the enzymes they release, the vinegar is enriched with the aromas and flavors that identify balsamic vinegar. This process takes 10 to 12 years.
Aging
With aging, through a series of very complex chemical-physical transformations, all the balsamic components harmonize in an extraordinary balance, enhancing and refining the vinegar’s olfactory-gustatory characteristics. The duration of this phase is flexible and, through repeated topping up and refilling, can be extended indefinitely, leading to continuous improvement of the resulting product. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, the so-called “Extravecchio ” is aged for at least 25 years.
The best place for balsamic vinegar casks
For centuries, the ideal vinegar cellar was placed in the attic of manor houses or, in modern times, of the vinegar factories that produce it, in a ventilated environment with large temperature ranges between summer and winter. The scorching heat and bitter cold favor the maturation of balsamic vinegar. Small windows or narrow openings let in oxygen, which initiates acetic oxidation and promotes a dry microclimate.
Wooden barrels
Wooden barrels, or casks are still the most suitable containers for storing cooked must. Barrels are easy to handle, time resistant and made of fine wood, thus ensuring adequate oxygenation and partial evaporation of water from balsamic vinegar. It is believed that an array of barrels should include a minimum of 5 to a maximum of 12-13 wooden barrels. Considering the annual practice of withdrawing and refilling, described below, the barrels have a scaled size, differing from each other by a decreasing capacity of 25-30%. Thus, in a set of 5 barrels, the respective increasing capacities are 60, 50, 40, 30 and 20 liters. One of the most relevant characteristics of barrels concerns the type of wood they are made from.
What kind of wood is used for balsamic vinegar?
The kind of wood to make barrels for processing traditional balsamic vinegar depends on the degree of hardness. Hard woods such as oak, durmast, locust and juniper have a low evaporation coefficient and slow down the concentration of the liquid they contain. For this reason, the hardwood barrels are usually placed at the tail end of the array, where the balsamic vinegar undergoes limited reduction and requires less oxygenation and tightness.In contrast, soft, porous woods such as cherry, mulberry, pear, and apple have a high evaporation coefficient and ensure a constant exchange of oxygen with the environment, facilitating fermentation and maximum liquid concentration. Soft wood barrels are then placed at the head of the array, with greater capacity and lower tightness. Finally, semi-hard woods, such as ash and chestnut, are medium-porous and long-lasting and used for the casks in the middle.Oak and chestnut, along with ash, locust and cherry, are the most widely used woods in current barrel production. Mulberry and juniper are protected species therefore seldom used, as are apple and pear woods: on the one hand they add delicious fruity aromas to balsamic vinegar, but on the other hand they have sealing problems.
Drawing, topping-up and refilling
The ideal time to put the cooked must into the larger jar is between February and March, when fermentation activity is about to begin, possibly on days with waning crescent moon days and no wind, to avoid dust contamination. Once a year, after a thorough analysis, a small quantity of ripe, thick balsamic vinegar is drawn from the smallest barrel and collected for bottling and packaging. Each next larger barrel is then topped up, and the biggest cask is finally refilled with fresher grape must prepared during the previous fall and left to settle during the winter. These operations should never be done before the balsamic vinegar is 12 years old and only limited amounts of balsamic vinegar should be taken out and topped up, so as not to damage the final product left inside the barrels.
How long does it take to age balsamic vinegar?
As the process progresses, from year to year, the quality and organoleptic complexity of the balsamic vinegar tends to improve until it can boast the designation “Extravecchio” after at least 25 years of continuous care. Thus, it is an uninterrupted and never-ending process based on withdrawals, refills and toppings that must be carefully measured to allow the balsamic vinegar to slowly attain the right syrupiness and perfect sweet-and-sour flavor. With advanced skills and techniques, balsamic vinegar can be aged for dozens of years (over 25 and up to 70 or 100 years) and reach unsurpassed levels of quality.
Traditional balsamic vinegar: how it is packaged
The official packaging of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO is a 100 ml-small bottle, designed by Giugiaro, and made of solid, transparent glass, spherical in shape and a rectangular base. After filling, the small bottle is wax-sealed to guarantee the authenticity and quality of the product it contains. The bottle is often equipped with a non-drip glass spout and packaged in a refined box.Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is available in two aging versions:
- Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena aged at least 12 years (otherwise known as “Affinato”);
- Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, extra-aged at least 25 years, which also means 50 or 70 years and beyond (also known as “Extravecchio”).
For both versions, the characteristics of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena are:Density: ≥ 1.240 kg/LAcidity: ≥ 4.5 g/100 ml Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia is also packaged in a glass bottle, with a capacity of 100 ml, but in the shape of an inverted tulip. It is marked with the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) brand and a wax-sealed serial number that guarantees the traceability of the product. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia is available in three aging versions:
- Red lobster-colored label (“bollino aragosta”) aged at least 12 years;
- Silver-colored label (“bollino argento”), aged at least 18/20 years;
- Golden-colored label (“bollino oro”), aged at least 25 years.
For the above three versions, the characteristics of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia are:Density: ≥ 1,200 kg/LAcidity: ≥ 5 g/100 ml Note that the year of production and aging cannot be stated on the label of either Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena or Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia, other than the generic reference to “over 12 years” or “over 25 years” of aging. Any other specification (e.g., 50-year-old balsamic vinegar) on the label or packaging will reveal a non-authentic balsamic vinegar. The glass of traditional balsamic vinegar bottles must be transparent to allow inspection of the content. In addition, the bottle is protected in a robust and elegant gift box, which not only serves an aesthetic function but also protects the bottle during transport.
Organoleptic characteristics of traditional balsamic vinegar
As described in the previous paragraphs, a few elements combine to form traditional balsamic vinegar: the soil, the fire, the air, all the men and women who have maintained its historical and cultural background and carried on traditions over the centuries.Organoleptically, traditional balsamic vinegar has a deep, glossy dark brown color and reveals its density in a smooth syrupiness. It possesses a distinctive and complex aroma, penetrating and characterized by harmonious acidity. Its traditional and inimitable sweet-and-sour flavor is full and well-balanced and has velvety hints that complement its distinct olfactory character.
Learn more about organoleptic characteristics in this dedicated article.