To fully understand where balsamic vinegar comes from, we need to map out the long history and tradition of wine and vinegar making that features the land of Emilia Romagna, one of the regions of northern Italy. Balsamic vinegar comes from a centuries-long tradition of wine and vinegar production.
Through legends, myths, and reality, it has crossed the barriers of time to the present day. In the following paragraphs, we will outline the history and origin of balsamic vinegar, focusing on the area called Emilia where it began centuries ago and is still made today and called balsamic vinegar of Modena (or Modenese balsamic vinegar) and balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia (or Reggio Emilia balsamic vinegar).
Where does balsamic vinegar come from?
From its origins up to now, the history of balsamic vinegar has developed through hundreds of years, through the following milestones:
- Ancient times, when the balsamic vinegar was first made and put down its roots in Emilia
- Middle Ages
- The Renaissance
- The Este (Estensi) family
The use of vinegar in ancient times
As early as the third millennium B.C., in Egypt, Mesopotamia, Palestine and, later, in the lands of Ancient Greece and Rome, archaeological discoveries revealed a widespread use of grapes, apple, date and fig musts. In fact, vinegar was abundantly used, by rich and poor alike, as a preservative to transport food on long journeys, as a condiment, a balm to cure illnesses and as a powerful, multi-purpose detergent.
Following the first trading contacts and the conquest of Magna Graecia by the Romans, the culture of wine and vinegar was also passed down to Rome, which was experiencing a considerable growth in food and wine production. While the Mediterranean region was under the Roman Empire, the so-called acetabulum (a small cruet for vinegar) showed up on tables, encouraging the spread of new, flavored vinegars.
The roots of balsamic vinegar, however, lie in the cooking of the must. Hence, the Romans introduced the Latin verb defrutare, i.e., to cook the must. In the I century A.D., the Roman writer Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella included a cella defrutaria, a small room where the cooked must was stored, in the description of an ideal farmhouse.
Again, Virgil (70 B.C. – 19 B.C.) in book I of The Georgics, a poem dealing with agriculture and rural topics, described a peasant’s house in his hometown called Mantua, where a woman “cooks must, sweet juice, on the fire […]”.
A deeply rooted vocation for balsamic vinegar
Based on the above history of balsamic vinegar, its origins seem to date back to Roman times, although not much is known about the recipes used, as they would change depending on the production area.
Already at that time, the inhabitants of Emilia (which also included the present-day provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia) showed an already existing “balsamic vocation” that led to the development of balsamic vinegar processing methods. Over the years, this vocation grew into skills and rules, giving rise to authentic balsamic vinegar, as we know it today.
Middle Ages
In the Middle Ages, vinegars were still spread in the area south of the Alps, where wooden barrels were first used to store it. One special type of vinegar made in Canossa, an Italian castle town near Reggio Emilia, was certainly the most famous of that period.
The Benedictine monk Donizone, who praised the life of the Great Countess Matilda of Tuscany from the noble house of Canossa in the chronicles De principibus Canusinis, reports that in 1046, while stopping in Piacenza on his way to Rome to be crowned emperor, the then King Henry III of Franconia had several gifts delivered to the Marquis Boniface III of Tuscany, father of Matilda, in exchange for the already famous vinegar that was produced only in his castle and which “was said to be perfect”.
The Marquis therefore made a small, silver cask where he bottled the precious liquid and delivered it to the King. In fact, the content of the cask, as well as the method of vinegar processing used in the 11th century, remained a mystery. At that time, the acetum, or its precursor since the balsamic term had not come into usage yet, referred to a popular condiment/healing balm already mostly appreciated by the Romans, and which was established in daily culinary practice. T
he Byzantine scientist Symeon Seth would recommend sprinkling a few drops of balsamic vinegar over green salads. Moreover, in Arab cuisine, vinegar was very popular among condiments as it was not subject to Muslim restrictions regarding wine and other alcoholic beverages.
In the Middle Ages, while food trends led the nobles to prefer more acidic and contrasting flavours, such as the so-called agrestic (unripe grape juice), the use of vinegar was still widespread among commoners.
The Renaissance
Beginning in the 14th century, with the historical transition to the Renaissance, the eating habits of the nobility underwent a profound revolution. From Italy, new food trends began to spread throughout the courts of Europe, to be declined in luxurious and rich banquets of lords and sovereigns. Outside the courts, however, the simple culinary traditions of the people, which also included balsamic vinegar, continued to play a key role.
The resulting sweet-and-sour turn in the aristocratic Renaissance recipes marked the beginning of a successful new phase for “balsamic vinegar”, a refined and concentrated syrup that flavored dishes without ever covering their taste. The Italian cities of Modena and Reggio Emilia had already established themselves as prime production areas.
The Este family
In 1598, following a political agreement to redefine the boundaries of the small states into which Italy had been divided, Duke Cesare d’Este left Ferrara and moved to Modena, the new capital of the Este Duchy. The ducal family’s relocation entailed a massive urban transformation, aimed at elevating the city of Modena from the marginal and rural profile it had had until then. The production of balsamic vinegar was also intensified and brought to the Camera del Prato, the attic located in the southwest facing tower of Palazzo Ducale di Modena (Ducal Palace of Modena).
Balsamic vinegar: from mystery to reality
Soon, everyone became aware of the extraordinary properties of the so-called vinegar of the Duke, known as an excellent condiment that made every food more refined and tasty, as well as being a universal remedy for pains of the body.
The fame of balsamic vinegar was also fueled by the secrets, safely guarded and shrouded in mystery, of the expert vintners of the Duke’s vinegar cellars who, over time, refined the techniques of making balsamic vinegar.
In 1747, the term “balsamic” was first written in the cellar records of the Este court to qualify a special vinegar. This definition did not refer to other products, such as aged wine vinegars, but only to this vinegar, compared to a fragrant balm, that brought well-being and soothed all aches. The late appearance of the full term (balsamic vinegar) suggests that the modern technique for the preparation of balsamic vinegar, with its well-known sensory characteristics, was only defined in the 18th century.
The spread of balsamic vinegar
Until the first half of the 19th century, the culture of balsamic vinegar belonged exclusively to the cities of Modena and Reggio Emilia, and was almost completely unknown elsewhere, with the exception of a few admirers from other regions. However, certain events reported below have helped to quickly spread its popularity to other parts of Italy and Europe, and to pass on the tradition of balsamic vinegar from the aristocratic classes to the bourgeoisie.
- In 1764, Count Vorontsov, State Chancellor, and trusted man of the Empress Catherine the Great of Russia, was on a mission to Italy in search of beautiful and delicious things to embellish and delight the Royal Palace in St. Petersburg. Passing through Modena, Count Vorontsov tasted some traditional balsamic vinegar and immediately sent it to the Empress in Russia, who was in turn enchanted.
- In 1792, Duke Hercules III d ‘Este, who was a skilled weaver of marriages and political alliances, sent Archduke Francis II of Habsburg-Lorraine a small ampoule of balsamic vinegar as a gift for his coronation. This suggests the aristocratic and elitist traits of balsamic vinegar, used as a political facilitator on official occasions.
- In 1803, following the French occupation, the barrels of balsamic vinegar stored inside the Ducal Palace of Modena were dismantled and sold to the local bourgeoisie, who used them to increase their balsamic heritage. For the first time, aristocratic balsamic vinegar was marketed for profit and used to finance the war. The newly emerging and enterprising middle class began to study and codify the method of producing balsamic vinegar, laying the foundation for the current know-how and culture of balsamic vinegar.
- In 1814, at the fall of Napoleon, Duke Francis IV of Habsburg Este returned to Modena and wanted to restore the cells of the Ducal Palace. Being a balsamic vinegar lover, the duke had special travel flasks made, which allowed him to take balsamic vinegar on his travels through Europe, thus helping to spread it in other countries.
- In 1848, with the unification of Italy, the growth of national trade and increased sales of Italian products in Europe encouraged the production of balsamic vinegar for commercial purposes.
- In 1861, the vinegar from the Giusti family of Modena was taken to the Florence Exhibition, where it won awards and attracted consumers’ attention, marking the beginning of a new wave of popularity for balsamic vinegar outside the borders of Emilia.
- In 1862, following the annexation of the Estense State to the Kingdom of Italy, the King of Italy, Victor Emmanuel II dismantled the ducal vinegar cellars: he kept the best barrels for himself and sent the others to the Royal Castle of Moncalieri in Piedmont. This ill-advised decision had positive implications for balsamic vinegar: Ottavio Ottavi, an oenologist in Casale Monferrato and an admirer of balsamic vinegar, wrote to Francesco Aggazzotti (1811-1890), a wine and vinegar producer in Modena, asking for advice on how to manage the balsamic vinegar barrels. Aggazzotti replied to Ottavi on 2 March 1862 and his letter became the first in-depth description of the production cycle on the basis of which the official guidelines for Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, draft by the Consortium of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena in 1967, were later developed.
Although Aggazzotti provided accurate and clear instructions, the Duke’s vinegar withered away, having been ripped from its homeland and irreparably contaminated by inappropriate climate and environment. This marked, on the one hand, the end of the aristocratic tradition of balsamic vinegar as a condiment for private use only and, on the other, the creation of new production sites, where it was made and sold to meet the growing demand for balsamic throughout Italy and Europe.
The tradition of Balsamic Vinegar, now known as Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena P.D.O., was carried on by local entrepreneurs. They were joined by farmers who continued to develop the medieval and Renaissance recipe for balsamic condiments, which is partially included in the production of today’s Balsamic Vinegar of Modena P.G.I.
Where balsamic vinegar originates from
Considering the wide and varied background of balsamic vinegar, it is natural to ask whether the boundaries of the balsamic production area have ever been subject to change over the centuries. In this regard, it is necessary to clearly define the three officially recognized ranges of balsamic vinegar and their component grape production and areas:
- Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena P.D.O.
- Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia P.D.O.
- Balsamic Vinegar of Modena P.G.I.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena P.D.O.
It is made from the must of grapes grown and harvested in the province of Modena. Its production area includes the entire territory of the province of Modena, in the Italian region Emilia Romagna. The woods of the barrels used for aging the balsamic vinegar also come from the same area.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia P.D.O.
It is obtained from the fermentation and aging of must from grapes grown exclusively in the province of Reggio Emilia. Its production area is in the province of Reggio Emilia, in Emilia-Romagna. Sometimes, it may be also referred to as Reggio Emilia balsamic vinegar or balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia.
Balsamic Vinegar of Modena P.G.I.
It is made from the must of specific types of grapes, partially fermented and/or cooked and/or concentrated, with the addition of at least 10 year-old vinegar, wine vinegar and a little caramel. The production area also falls within the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia. This is why it is also referred to as Modenese balsamic vinegar or balsamic vinegar of Modena Unlike Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO, this type of balsamic vinegar can also be bottled outside the geographical area of origin.
The province of Modena and the province of Reggio Emilia
Although seemingly similar, the province of Modena and the province of Reggio Emilia differ significantly in terms of geography, climate, and peculiarities of the territory.
- In the province of Modena, in fact, balsamic vinegar brings to life the history of the fertile plains created millions of years ago by the alluvial deposits of the Po, Panaro, Secchia and Scortico rivers, then reclaimed and cultivated among canals and green fields cooled by the Apennine breeze.
- In the province of Reggio Emilia, the beautiful, verdant landscape created by the proximity of the high plains and hilly terrain favored the construction of sumptuous villas. These dwellings, cooled by the Apennine breezes and immersed in damp winter mists, housed traditional vinegar cellars in their attics, which soon became a point of contact between peasant cultural background and the emerging urban life.
Does all balsamic vinegar come from Italy?
Following a long and troubled dispute in the European Commission, to date the term “balsamic vinegar” is associated only with the Italian condiment produced in Emilia, both in the very popular P.G.I. (Protected Geographical Identification) version, and in the more exclusive P.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) version.
In addition to these types of high-quality balsamic vinegars, large quantities of medium-low quality balsamic products (glazes, creams, condiments, pearls, etc.) are also available in stores, supermarkets, and ecommerce platforms, produced both in Italy and in other countries, since they are not bound by any PGI or PDO specification.
Therefore, two major ranges of balsamic products need to be taken into consideration:
- Balsamic vinegar condiments produced by expert vinegar makers in the areas of Modena and Reggio Emilia and containing varying amounts of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena P.G.I (Protected Geographical Identification method). Although not 100% pure, these balsamic products are still considered quality Italian condiments. Moreover, due to their versatility and variety, they also meet the tastes of consumers who are less familiar with the flavor of standard balsamic vinegar.
- Generic balsamic products created in other parts of Italy, or Europe, are not derived from the original balsamic vinegar tradition and have no geographical identification, such as the balsamic vinegars from Sardinia, Sicily, Piedmont, etc., and other European countries, e.g., Turkey, Spain, Greece, Slovenia, Portugal, etc. All these products do not have the same history as balsamic vinegar, nor its geographical origin, nor the sensory characteristics that distinguish it from all other types of vinegar.